Some people call French couturier Paul Poiret, who was known for his richly ornate tea gowns, Oriental bloomers and hobble skirts in the early 1900s, the first real “fashion designer.” That distinction should probably belong to English designer Charles Frederick Worth, from the 19th century, or even Rose Bertin long before him—she was Marie Antoinette’s dressmaker and a sort of cult personality in her own right. But Poiret was the first, perhaps, to consider himself an “artist,” and the first to expand his fashion empire to include perfumes, even though he did die forgotten and penniless. But, yes, he was an artiste, of the highest order. Just look at this fountain dress, made of cloth and dangling pearls. Extravagant, ridiculous, amazing.